A dhaba to die for   November 2006

  For regulars on the Delhi-Chandigarh route, a stopover at Puran Singh ka Mashoor Dhaba is an absolute must. Those familiar with this eatery try their utmost to reach here well before 2:30 in the afternoon, by which time the much sought-after mutton curry usually runs out.   Puran Singh ka Mashoor Dhaba (translated as ‘Puran Singh’s super-duper eatery’) is right on the intersection, across the road from the Ambala bus depot. Its visibility has recently been reduced due to a flyover constructed astride its length, which enables Delhi-Chandigarh traffic to zoom past, effectively avoiding the Ambala congestion. But that does not deter those looking for the tastiest mutton curry on the go.   This dhaba has been serving highway travelers for at least three decades, and used to open only for lunch. The story goes that army veteran Puran Singh’s neighbours used to bribe him with a bottle of liquor every day to down shutters in the evenings so that they could also find some custom. With him open, they had no hope.   The present dhaba is fairly large, with a seating capacity of 70 to 80 people, depending on how hungry customers are to mind a bit of a squeeze while dining. The offering most in demand is without doubt the mutton dish – Rs 80 per plate, and really enough only for one person, unless you are a spectacularly small eater. It is accompanied with hot, oven-fresh tandoori rotis. The green salad, comprising mainly of onions, lemon and green chillies, is complimentary.   The chicken curry is by now almost as famous as the legendary mutton version, the mainly Punjabi crowd having a particular fondness for it. In addition there is the keema curry, with pieces of liver and kidney – passable, with the gravy tasting oddly similar to the mutton curry. There is also, of course, the mandatory tandoori chicken, again an all-time favourite. It would be unfair not to list the vegetarian offerings, such as the very common shahi paneer (cottage cheese in a creamy tomato gravy), mixed vegetables, dal makhni and raita. Even these meatless dishes have some takers!   For all the varied offerings, however, a good meal at Puran Singh’s would consist of unadulterated mutton curry and tandoori rotis, washed down with something bubbly to settle the oil and energise you as you hit the road. A meal for two comprising of at least two dishes would cost about Rs 300.   A word of caution though: those hunting for the dhaba for the first time often confuse it with the two other Puran Singh dhabas, located immediately before the real one when approaching from the Chandigarh end. The authentic one is on the corner across from the bus stop, and is the largest of all the surrounding eateries. Leave the driving to those on the flyover for a bit.