Illustration: Akila Weerasinghe / Himal Southasian
Illustration: Akila Weerasinghe / Himal Southasian

Style and the city

Two writers explore the politics of fashion in Bombay and Delhi.

The Bombay Girl

By Supriya Nair

The 'Bombay Girl' always seemed more visible than she really was. A decade ago, Shilpa Phadke, Sameera Khan and Shilpa Ranade, authors of a path-breaking book about women in public space called Why Loiter? found that at peak hours at Churchgate station, less than a third of the observable population was female. Yet for a long time, she was a spectre dominating the imagination of Indians both within and outside the metropolis, and nowhere was she more real than in the minds of living, breathing, working Bombay Girls.

Sometimes, a woman is defined by the clothes she wears to work, and this is as good as any starting point to describe the Bombay Girl, who was always a worker. In the 1950s, as a high-spirited, socially useful member of modern Indian society, she appeared in Hindi cinema as a journalist or teacher, a club entertainer, sometimes even a social worker. These women, played by Madhubala, Nargis or Nutan, made the glossy washable saris tumbling out of Bombay's still-chattering mills look sheeny and sophisticated. Worn with modest, structured blouses, they performed the chief function a woman's clothes were required to perform in Nehru's India. They allowed the woman to take advantage of her newly granted freedom to be outside her home, while protecting her five-thousand-year-old virtue.

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