A child plays alone in an empty Kathmandu Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A child plays alone in an empty Kathmandu Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Silent squares

Kathmandu’s streets lie empty as Nepal goes into lockdown.

Giacomo d’Orlando is a photojournalist currently based in Kathmandu.

On 11 March 2020, the World Health Organization (WHO) declared the COVID-19 outbreak a pandemic. In response, the Nepal government suspended international flights from 22 March, and border crossings from India and China from 23 March. On Tuesday, 24 March, Nepal initiated a nationwide lockdown, bringing the country to a halt. With Nepal already seeing its first case of local transmission, the lockdown is likely to continue for a while.

After showing recent signs of recovery following the devastating 2015 earthquake and the subsequent border blockade by India, Nepal's economy now faces new vulnerabilities. Along with the slowdown of domestic economic activity and the damage to tourism, remittance from overseas, which accounts for over a quarter of the country's GDP, is likely to decrease. As if in premonition of an impending economic crisis, these photographs some taken the day after the lockdown and some a week later capture Kathmandu's streets and squares, previously hives of activity, but now empty.

Members of Nepal's Armed Police Force patrol the Kathmandu Durbar Square to maintain curfew.
Members of Nepal's Armed Police Force patrol the Kathmandu Durbar Square to maintain curfew.
An unusually empty Asan Bazaar.
An unusually empty Asan Bazaar.
Indra Chowk, another marketplace, a quick walk away.
Indra Chowk, another marketplace, a quick walk away.
The balcony of a building in Baluwatar, a residential area in Kathmandu.
The balcony of a building in Baluwatar, a residential area in Kathmandu.
A woman looks outside her window in front of the Boudhanath Stupa.
A woman looks outside her window in front of the Boudhanath Stupa.
Statue of a yeti, the official mascot of the Visit Nepal Year 2020 campaign, stands alone in an empty Boudhanath area. In 2019, almost 1.2 million tourists visited Nepal, and 2020 was promoted as a year for tourism. As part of that campaign, 108 such fibreglass sculptures were to be displayed within and outside the country. The government promotions have been suspended in light of the outbreak.
Statue of a yeti, the official mascot of the Visit Nepal Year 2020 campaign, stands alone in an empty Boudhanath area. In 2019, almost 1.2 million tourists visited Nepal, and 2020 was promoted as a year for tourism. As part of that campaign, 108 such fibreglass sculptures were to be displayed within and outside the country. The government promotions have been suspended in light of the outbreak.
A man in an empty Kathmandu Durbar Square in front of the Taleju Temple.
A man in an empty Kathmandu Durbar Square in front of the Taleju Temple.
A Buddhist monk walks back to his monastery. On 18 March, Nepal's ban on mass gatherings was extended to prohibit gatherings of over 25 people in religious and public spaces.
A Buddhist monk walks back to his monastery. On 18 March, Nepal's ban on mass gatherings was extended to prohibit gatherings of over 25 people in religious and public spaces.
A pharmacy in Bhatbhateni neighborhood. Drug stores are one of the few essential shops allowed to be open since the lockdown started. Nepal's poor public-health infrastructure, including the lack of adequate protection for health workers, has come into focus as the country struggles to test more people for COVID-19. According to the WHO, Nepal has 0.7 physicians per 1000 people (the world average is approximately 1.5 per 1000 people) and 2.7 nurses and midwives per 1000 people (the world average is approximately 3.4).
A pharmacy in Bhatbhateni neighborhood. Drug stores are one of the few essential shops allowed to be open since the lockdown started. Nepal's poor public-health infrastructure, including the lack of adequate protection for health workers, has come into focus as the country struggles to test more people for COVID-19. According to the WHO, Nepal has 0.7 physicians per 1000 people (the world average is approximately 1.5 per 1000 people) and 2.7 nurses and midwives per 1000 people (the world average is approximately 3.4).
A man waits to buy medicine outside a drug store in Thamel, a neighborhood in Kathmandu known for its restaurants and nightlife. Since the outbreak, monitoring teams and health posts have been established at major border check-points.
A man waits to buy medicine outside a drug store in Thamel, a neighborhood in Kathmandu known for its restaurants and nightlife. Since the outbreak, monitoring teams and health posts have been established at major border check-points.
A woman's body temperature being checked before she enters the non-profit Helping Hands Community Hospital in Chabahil, Kathmandu. Some fear that poor COVID-19 detection capacity means the number of infected persons could be much higher than officially recorded.
A woman's body temperature being checked before she enters the non-profit Helping Hands Community Hospital in Chabahil, Kathmandu. Some fear that poor COVID-19 detection capacity means the number of infected persons could be much higher than officially recorded.
An abandoned face mask on the street. In early February 2020, high demand for face masks left shortages in pharmacies.
An abandoned face mask on the street. In early February 2020, high demand for face masks left shortages in pharmacies.
Since the lockdown began pollution in the city has visibly decreased. Benefiting from the clean and empty streets, dogs rest in front of the Kaal Bhairav temple.
Since the lockdown began pollution in the city has visibly decreased. Benefiting from the clean and empty streets, dogs rest in front of the Kaal Bhairav temple.
The sun sets in Sukedhara along the banks of the Dhobikhola River.
The sun sets in Sukedhara along the banks of the Dhobikhola River.
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