South, to Bylakuppe

Bylakuppe is an odd place. Outside the rows of houses, the hot wind pushes the dusty air past coconut palms and out into the arid plains. Inside the homes, it is cool; the rooms look, feel and even smell Tibetan. People in traditional Tibetan clothing sit on hand-knotted rugs with central Asian motifs, gulping bowls of butter tea. A family sits around making momo dumplings in rooms adorned with thangkas and prayer-wheels. On this dry, remote land, about the farthest point from the Himalaya in the sub-continent, a community of several thousand Tibetans have built a settlement that was always meant to be temporary. But refugees of Bylakuppe have managed to carry on the cultural enterprise of being Tibetans, and are even thriving.

In 1960, the Dalai Lama felt the the Tibetans who had just come out into exile needed a stable place to live. Of greatest importance was that Tibetam live as a community so that their culture and traditions would hold them together until they could return to Tibet. Sensitive to the Tibetans' plight, the government of India called upon its states to provide spare land for these landless people. Karnataka, in South India, stepped forward with an offer of 5000 acres in Bylakuppe.

Initially, each person was allotted one acre of land, with no rent or lease payments. Back then targeted to have no more than 3000 refugees, Bylakuppe's population today exceeds 15,000, divided among five camps. From each camp, a person is elected for the voluntary job of camp leader. Decisions regarding direction, welfare and structure of the overall settlement is taken by the camp leaders along with the representative of the government-in-exile. These leaders are also responsible for administering justice within the settlement, and only serious eases are referred to the Indian Police. Although men and women have an equal vote, there have been few women leaders in the camp's history.

The Dharamsala government provides directions with regards to spiritual life, health and community standards, while the Indian Government provides finances for roads and schools. These contributions aside, the community sustains itself financially, through farming and other activity.

One possible explanation for the Bylakuppe's success is that the community operates as a collective with every inhabitant a member, much like the Moshav in Israel. AB tractors, farming equipment and other tools are owned by the cooperative. Members purchase seeds, stock and fertilizer which can either be repaid in cash or kind when their harvest comes in. Most of the corn, the major crop, is sold in outside markets, while rice and other minor crops are grown mostly for consumption within the camp.

Bylakuppe also has a tractor repair business, poultry farms, and dairy and animal sales, all of which bring income. Many enterprising Bylakuppans travel to northern India where they purchase sweaters and other goods to sell in the Mysore area. The settlement also produces the usual array of Tibetan handicrafts, thangkas, carvings and carpets.

Thirty-five per cent of the settlement population is considered officially "poor", and receives aid from the Family Welfare Association. Generally, the recipients are the aged or heads of large families. However, in a restaurant in the camp, Indians are hired as domestic help.

Most Bylakuppe children go through some schooling but many leave before matriculation. The mandatory Indian curriculum is followed, which includes English and Hindi. To this are added Tibetan language, culture and geography. Most Tibetans also know Kannada from their interaction with the community.

The camp has outgrown its intended population five times over, and a local official has an interesting observation to make. "In principle, we would like to increase our numbers because so many Tibetans died but then this puts a strain on our economy," explains Sonam Chapel, Office Secretary, representing the Council for Home Affairs the DharamsaIa government.

All in all, Bylakuppe ranks high for its quality of life for Tibetans. There is economic security and religious and cultural freedom is unrestricted. A safe Tibetan haven in the southern tip of India.

Burson is a photographer who recently visited Bylakuppe.