Nepal’s forgotten cultural revolution
THE SCHOOLTEACHER walked ahead of me through the terraced hillside above Dullu, in Dailekh district in the west of Nepal, and paused where the path crests a small rise to gesture at a clearing below. We descended together into it. There was one standing wall, sun-bleached, cracked along its upper courses, listing slightly as though exhausted, rising from weeds and what looked, from a distance, like piled rubble. This was all that remained of the Dullu Durbar, a palace built in the 1920s by artisans from Kathmandu on the site of the old Malla royal compound – centuries earlier the winter seat of Khas-Malla kingship.
“It burnt for several days,” the teacher said. “You could see smoke from several villages away. Nobody came. Nobody stopped it.”

